Istanbul - First of Three Turkey Micro Vacations

Staying in the Old City of Sultanahamet was a particularly smart choice (thanks Robynne!). Not only incredibly convenient -- minutes from our ceaselessly-boarded tram stop -- but enveloped by Ramadan observences. Don't believe visitors who say that local cab drivers can take you anywhere providing you have a written address. Istanbul cabbies have no business having jobs that depend on navigation!

Hearing prayers emanating from neighborhood loudspeakers five times every day was a constant symbol of the Muslim commitment. Signs of fasting weren't nearly as evident as public prayer.

Scanning the Istanbul skyline reveals mosques everywhere. They're evident from the minarets dotting every sight line. Turkey is considered unique in the Muslim world for its relatively conservative and less overt relationship to devout convention. Far, far fewer women in head-dress, for instance.

We explored some of the compulsory ancient artifacts: the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern and Aya Sophia. Aya Sophia is absolutely remarkable. Built about 1,000 years BEFORE St. Paul's Cathedral but exhibiting a comparably-huge dome considered an architectural miracle. Visitors tend to tout the Blue Mosque but it's Sophia that Robynne and I found especially awesome.

Many friends and travel postings attest to the worthiness of a Bosphorous River cruise. We didn't want to expend an entire day so we researched our options (go figure, two researchers sussing possibilitles!). Robynne became smitten with "The Captain" -- an older geezer who donned a dirtied sailor's cap. He's the closer -- persuading last minute wannabes to board his boat. That cinched it -- two-plus hours and a geriatric chaperone! But, it was fantastic. Great sites.

The most-uttered word of the entire trip (by Robynne) was "buz." It could be heard everywhere, "buz?" And it didn't take long to develop a ritual and, go figure, it involved drinking. Our after-dinner wine pours prevailed nightly on the hotel roof overlooking the Old City. Ramadan chanting in the background and mosques glowing 360 degrees, it was bliss.

Turkish pizza is defined by Buyuk Spesiyal Lachmacun at Hamdi restaurant. Perfection. Bliss. Aspirational.

On the day we braved the Grand Bazaar, we soon found that the adage, "all roads lead to ..." was never truer. From the moment we embarked to day's end, we kept reappearing where we had been before -- without any intention! And by the end of our Istanbul stay, we had been in the Spice Market five times!

The most emotional moment of the entire trip (save our arrival at the cooking class property) ocurred when we serendipitously landed on the rooftop of Mikla -- one of the best restaurants in Istanbul (followed by a marvelous meal one floor below). The sun was setting, serene blue sky, light wind, exposed bar, great bossa nova-like tunes spun by a cute DJ, and a perfect vibe. It was a "pinch me" moment if ever there was one.